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Visit Chef Jeffrey Allen Kaufman's column >>

CHEF JEFFREY ALLEN KAUFMAN

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Opinionated Writer, Chef, and Single Father of Three
Articles Posted: 48  Links Seeded: 18
Member Since: 2/2010  Last Seen: 2/15/2012

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A Chefs View on Mercury Contaminated Fish

Wed Feb 17, 2010 12:07 PM EST
health, cooking, salmon, production, mercury, chef, toxins, heavy-metal, tuna, tuna-fish, mercury-poison, chef-jeffrey-allen-kaufman
By Chef Jeffrey Allen Kaufman
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Before you open that can of Tuna, or bake off a Salmon Fillet, take a little moment here and think about what exactly you are putting into your body. Tuna is a beautiful, and wonderfully delicious item of consumption sold and shipped all across the globe, but there can be a slight risk involved when you open up a can and make a meal from it. Tuna and other salt Water Fish species like Salmon carry trace amounts to substantial amounts of heavy metals, lead, and others, but mostly Mercury. This can happen in the wild, or even during the processing stage, but never the less, Mercury Contamination does make it's rounds throughout the United States in many forms.

The FDA says they can remove fish with mercury contamination above 1 ppm from a market source, but it never has. According to http://www.oceana.org "One in three of sushi tuna samples tested by Oceana exceeded the FDA action level. Despite these findings, however, fresh tuna, like that found in sushi, is not included in the FDA's "Do Not Eat" advice."

Most larger, longer living, cultivated fish are contaminated, not tainted. While Yellow fin, and dolphin are highly regarded as a delicacy, they can be found to be much higher in Mercury deposits due to their growth time, and harvested weights. Some Chefs use without regard, these highly unacceptable tainted fish, in a variety of productions, and most of the Tuna used in Industrial and Gourmet cooking or production comes from larger older fish. This being Albacore, because of it's white and flaky flesh, even taste and sweeter flavor, it is highly used in all forms of production in kitchens all around America.

Pacific Salmon, wild caught, and farm raised are used quite a bit in Sushi presentations, along with eel, and tuna. The older the fish, the higher the content possibility.There are many factors in the farm raising, and cultivation of Salmon that can introduce these fish to Mercury. The feeding itself, and area in which they are being raised can lead to Mercury contamination, and along with the processing plant, can also introduce these fish to being tainted. While you can buy Salmon in many forms, one of the more dangerous purchases that can be made comes from Smoked Scottish Salmon, a highly delectable form of processing, but again, these are mostly larger wild caught fish, that are very close to the edge of high contents of Mercury.

It can be very hard for consumers to find information about mercury in a grocery store, market or restaurant. The FDA has yet to apply a stronger stance on the labeling of items such as tuna in a store setting, but they do make it known that the risks are there. The FDA recommends that women of childbearing age and young children should not eat these four high-mercury containing species: swordfish, all species of shark, tile-fish and king mackerel. The FDA also makes the recommendation of limiting consumption of albacore tuna or tuna steaks to six ounces or less each week, and limiting low-mercury fish to 12 ounces or less per week.

The overall best practice for any Chef is to use younger harvested fish, and not wild caught. Being a chef for over 20 years, I have purchased accidentally, higher mercury contaminated tuna. Albacore is considered the best, and most expensive, but after some research I discovered White Albacore to be the highest in Mercury content and stopped buying it, again due the harvested weights and ages of these fish.

While in Sushi production, I switched to a fresh water eel variety, rather than a salt water species. I also started using processed seaweed, rather than the fresh, again to lower toxins in my productions.Little things like this are just a small change, but it greatly reduces the chances of feeding people something that can cause over time a added health risk. While there are some people who demand a certain variety of fish and do not care of the metal tainting, once explained that the reasoning for my changes in production, some, if not most do take the time to consider my stance!

I'd rather know I'm serving higher quality, with a lower quality fish, than serve a considered high quality fish, with a toxin contamination. Being practical is beneficial.

Chef Jeffrey Kaufman

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  • Public Discussion (3)
DarthVSchw

So danged if you do and danged if you don't eh? What do you think of tilapia, same deal younger better? I tend to prefer fresh water fish, walleyed pike and northerns, but I go way north of the city to fish for them. Don't have a lot of opportunity to get up to the good fishing waters of the north, sniff...

  • 1 vote
Reply#1 - Wed Feb 17, 2010 1:00 PM EST
Chef Jeffrey Allen Kaufman

Now Tilapia is a fish I used to snag when fishing down in Florida while they sat on their nest mounds in clear view. Being that they are a minute life eater, at least the species I caught were anyways, they run a less risk of being contaminated, now the funny thing is (Not really) being a avid bass fisherman down in Florida I unknowingly subjected myself to heavy doses of mercury. One catch in memory was a 13# large Mouth, Which I wanted to have stuffed but didn't, I cooked it, and it was the worst fish I ever ate, and unknowingly ingested a high dose of Mercury. It took this fish 8-10 years to reach this size, and according to FG&W of Florida, this size should have been tossed back and not eaten because of...A) The waters in which I was fishing....which were considered poor quality, unknown to me, but yet listed in their guide, and B) because of the size and age of the fish, which reassuringly, had a high content of heavy metals.

I spoke to a Game and Wildlife Officer who gave me a ticket one day, about the area I was fishing in, where I caught the monster bass. Her answer to my question was to hand me a pamphlet where it clearly showed the bodies of water I was fishing in to be an area where one shouldn't eat anything, anything that you might catch, since then....I always read up on the water qualities of a desired fishing hole before I even drag out my gear to go fishing! So...lol...to answer your question....Tilapia should be okay, if the body of water they are harvested in, is safe.

  • 2 votes
Reply#2 - Wed Feb 17, 2010 1:22 PM EST
Infohack

Very informative article, thanks. I tend to buy albacore a lot because of concerns with overfishing and harmful environmental practices of the tuna industry, I hadn't realized the higher potential risks of mercury from albacore.

I guess I should consider myself lucky that I live less than a mile from the shores of Lake Michigan, I usually order lake perch at local restaurants which due to their size should be relatively low in mercury. Still, closed ecosystem and 60 miles from Chicago, it's a concern.

    #2.1 - Wed Feb 17, 2010 8:14 PM EST
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